Golspie – Brora – Helmsdale. 30 June
Not much choice but to use the A9 today, to get myself to Helmsdale. Mountains to the left of me - the North Sea to the right.Yesterday we had a west wind, which would have suited me very well for today as I went along the shore line next the railway in a north-easterly direction. Instead I got a north-east wind in my face all day. It was so cold I am sure it came all the way from Norway.
It turned out there is no internet cafe in Golspie, nor in Brora, so that’ll set me back a dayor so with the blog.
There is a steep hill out of Golspie involving a GOTBAP. After the crest the road runs parallel with the railway which was reputedly built be the Duke of Sutherland who owns or owned most of the land hereabouts. There is even a private railway station across the street from the gates to Dunrobin Castle. Very convenient.
The intrepid cyclist setting off from Golspie in bright, but cold, sunshine.
What is that strange road-sign in the distance?
Ah yes. This was left by some kind person to inform / remind all passers-by on the A9 in Sutherland of the result of that football match, in case they hadn’t heard.
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The way into Helmsdale, by road, bike or rail
The Helmsdale -Kildonan war memorial, which chimes every quarter hour with Westminster chimes loud enough for the whole town to hear.
Next to it is an underground ice-house where they stored ice from the frozen river in the winter for use in the fishing industry i.e. to freeze the herring and send it to London and elsewhere.
The old bridge at Helmsdale, still in use, built by Thomas Telford (another Scotsman).
The A9 was full of hilly bits which called for several SPARs. The stong wind didn’t help. Brora used to be a thriving place. It even had a coal mine once upon a time. Now it is renowned for its ice cream shop, but I didn’t buy any because I was already too cold. Like many places along this coast, Helmsdale once prospered on the herring fishing, but there are now very few fishing boats left. Helmsdale also has an interesting history associated with its planned development in association with the enforced clearances initiated by the Dukes of Sutherland. Unlike most places in this part of the world, the streets are laid out in a grid pattern
My overnight stay at Navidale House hotel was made delightful by gracious host and hostess. I was even given a lift into town in order to shop/ blog so as to avoid having to climb the steep hill to the hotel.
There was a coal fire going in the lounge, which gives you some idea how cold it was. To a large extent the cooler climate up here is counteracted by the warmth of the people. Everyone seems friendly. Also they don’t lock up doors all the time. Shops are sometimes left open but unattended, and there are roadside stalls with honesty-boxes beside them. Andy Murray has reached the semi-finals at Wimbledon.
Rather than carry on up the boring A9 I have decided to see some more of the interesting heart of the Scottish highlands by going up along the Helmsdale valley, through Kinbrace and Forsinard to the A836 which runs along the roof of Scotland. This later transpired to be an excellent decision.
18.72 miles. 2 hours 19 minutes. Avge 8.0 mph
1 July, 2010 at 9:52 am
Hi James
Hot and heavy here today (Thursday).
The end is in sight! Well done. The old ad. song went He’s going well, he’s going Shell – should be changed to he’s going well he’s going on wine gums!!
Think you will have to add your autobiography to your bucket list.
And thanks for the beautiful photos as well as the blog.
Lesley
2 July, 2010 at 9:17 am
I recall an old phrase from the back seat of the car – are we nearly there yet Daddy? Great going James – by the way – Sue says – are you going to bike it all the way back? Silly girl!! You are doing the JOG to LE walk.
Bob ‘n Sue