Thurso – Dunnet Head – Mey – John O’Groats. FINISHED. 6th July at 3.30pm

What should have been an easy two days dawdle across to JOG, while waiting for my welcoming committee to arrive from Bermuda and Kent, was made ‘interesting’ by a climb up to Dunnet Head.  As is it the most northerly point on the British mainland, and as I was so near to it with time on my hands, I thought it would be a good idea to cycle up to it.

Starting off from Thurso I climbed past the old castle and found myself in a brisk north-west wind. Very nice. The traffic on the A836 was fairly light. The surface was good.  Large portions of the road were dead straight even though the Romans had no hand in building this road (I think). Perhaps it was General Wade or some such who built these straight roads.

I had received an e-mail message from the very helpful people at Caithness Horizons. They had researched the photo of a building I had taken between Shebster and Westfield and identified it. (Please see the Reay – Thurso blog page). The staff went out of their way to help me with this query and especially with research into the wartime radar station at Tannach which I would be visiting after I had finished the LEJOG. My thanks go to all of them who helped, including Joan, Dave, Marion, Bob the IT guy, and the lady in the cafe.

The buildings around here seem to be low, so as to keep out of the wind. There is a striking beach at Castletown.  If it weren’t for the weather it would be as nice as Bermuda. Then came some unusual-looking sand dunes. After lunch at the only pub in Dunnet I continued in tourist mode and cycled to Mary Anne’s cottage. This is a interesting historical place, lovingly preserved, giving an insight into a way of life which no longer exists.  The tour included an account of the process of cutting, turning, collecting, stacking, drying and burning peat. It reminded me of Strath Halladale.  I also contemplated how I learned all about ‘common rights of turbery’ for my banking exams a lifetime ago but it wasn’t until this trip that I clapped eyes on my first real piece of turf!

Then I set off for Dunnet Head, past Brough (pron Brog).  The road was narrow, steep, with switchbacks and the north-west wind seemed a lot stronger now that I was battling against it.  Several SPARs here, and having to pause to let oncoming traffic get past.  When you get to the top, the effort all seems worthwhile, in retrospect. I think I could also see John O’Groats for the first time in the distance.

The freewheel back downhill and downwind was exhilarating. It included the view of what was obviously a mill at Ham with its own mill-pond – now derelict and silted up.

5th July – 23.22 miles. 2 hours 18 minutes.  Avge 10.1 mph

After another overnight stay at the Castle Arms at Mey I went round the nearby Castle of Mey which was enjoyed, and improved upon, by the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.

Then I got the long-awaited phone call and set off to meet up with the welcoming committee at John O’Groats. The road undulates a bit, with only the view and the livestock to make it interesting. The weather reminded me of its constant presence by raining on me a bit in the last couple of miles. The last few hundred yards to the signpost are actually downhill, which surprised me for some reason.

At the signpost we had joyous greetings and  photographs.  We also met a few people who were either finishing or just setting off. This included Will English from Bristol who was starting off, and had already read some of this blog!   I wish him the best of luck and godspeed.

Then Marian, Tom, Anne and I disassembled poor Felicity and decanted her into the boot of the car. After a quick change out of these cycling shorts and clothes (what a relief) we departed for the pilgrimage to my mother’s wartime posting at RAF radar station at Tannach.  An account of that visit will follow.

6th July – 10.14 miles.  59 minutes.  10.31 mph

I am now in Tunbridge wells, continuing to enjoy the best British weather in years.  In fact it’s a heatwave.  My knees are  hurting now more than they did whilst I was resting during evenings ‘on the road’. I think that’s because of being immobile for so long sitting in luxury on the back seat watching the hills, rivers, mountains, trees and clouds fly by.  The journey down was surreal.

The road along the roof of Scotland, near Murkle.

Mary Anne’s cottage, near Dunnet.

Me, and the forefinger of an obliging German lady who took the photo, at Dunnet Head.

Coming down off Dunnet Head. Impressive cliffs and John O’Groats in the far distance.

Shetland pony, near Mey.

The Bermudian tourist at the castle of Mey.

Over a thousand miles and this is my first sighting. I believe the black and white animals on the right are called Jacob’s Sheep. I haven’t seen these in years. There is a biblical explanation for their name but I can’t remember what it is.

This fellow came across the field to greet me and say goodbye, near Huna.  I was putting my rain-jacket on. Wasn’t that nice of him? As I was only a couple of miles from the finish I shared the last of my fruit pastilles with the horse.  He gave me a big grin, so I assume he enjoyed them.

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